20/9/09 Update: I added some posed photos, namely the Full Burst and shooting at multiple targets. While this kit may have awesome articulation, I find it hard to find a good pose that isn’t dorky.
About 30 hours later…
Quite happy with the final result, which is much cleaner than my previous God Gundam build. My worst experience with this kit was definately dealing with the wings, from sanding, masking, and then un-masking. By the time the paint had finished drying, the blu-tack had dried up a bit, and as a result was a real nightmare to get off. There’s still a bit of green crap stuck to the occasional place in the wing joints.
Other dramas included breaking one of the ball joints off the fingers, but luckily I was able to glue it back into place and it seems like its holding out well enough. I also lost one of the red verniers for the wings, and one of the rear leg covers. I also think I have over top coated some areas such as the chest, and under coated such as the backpack.
Overall, this kit requires a ton of patience to build, and tested my limits as a lazy modeller. Even with the 30 or so hours I spent on this already there’s still so much more that I could’ve done.
No posed shots yet, but the gallery after the jump.
Looks great man, good work. You’re really making me want to get a kit 🙂
bro can i ask, did u use base grey or base black for the shading?
you call yourself lazy modeller and still came up with this kind of work? gee, it scares me to think what will become of this if you were at your best. . . 🙂
how much u buy this model?
The kit was like 3800Y at a Hobby Shop in Akihabara in 2009. If you want to see how much it is in your currency, check shops like hlj.com or 1999.co.jp/eng or Rainbowten.
Hi, may i ask what color mixture did you used for the yellow, grey and the red parts on your strike freedom? I am assuming you added fluro pink to them as well for the shine? And also, I do really need three layers for these colors? i.e. yellow + bit of black for base layer, then yellow minus the black and then + some white for shading… etc. Thanks
@Eddie
Hi there,
For the yellow parts I start with yellow + tiny bit of black then I add white into the mixture for highlights. So only 2 layers. The reason why I don’t do the straight yellow layer is that it looks very strong/bold compared to the rest of the other colours.
For grey parts I did black base coat followed by Neutral Grey + bit of black for highlights (Gunze paints).
Red was Maroon base coat followed by Red Madder (aka Monza Red) + bit of white.
I didn’t use fluro pink except for blue parts.
Hope this answers your question.
Thanks, It is very inspiring to see your Paint Jobs on the gundams. I am gonna do the MG SF with the VP conversion kit. Hopefully this will turn out better than the PG SF which i didn’t find too appealing.
I’m sorry to bother again but just wanna make this clear once more. Did you not shade the black parts (body, wings etc) in 2 layers? Is it just 1 layer black? Secondly, I have something in mind for the gold parts. Do you think shading the the gold parts with tamiya gold leaf as the base layer and then add some silver into the mix for shading a good idea? Or would you prefer to just mix some silver into the mix and only do 1 single layer? Thanks.
@Eddie
The ‘black parts’ are actually a very dark blue colour. The actual mixture I used is straight out of the guide: 40% blue + 30% black + 20% red + 10% white. What I did was did this in 2 coats. The first coat is the above mixture without the white. The 2nd layer I simply added the white in and used it for highlights.
As for your gold idea, I am not sure if it would work out as I don’t use metallic colours except in spray cans.
A little update on my MG strike freedom. It’s almost done cept the painting part. I had modded my SF with pla plate and some putty. It should be done very soon 😀 I’ll update with pictures later. BTW YJ, did you primed your inner frames for painting? I am deciding whether i should do it or not as I’m scared to clog up the joints. Thanks
Hey, look forward to seeing your Strike Freedom.
As for your question, yes I prime the inner frames before painting. Priming shouldn’t casuse any problems if you don’t spray it too thick. But I try to avoid painting ball joints and anything which will go into a polycap (eg the peg which connects the arn to the body) as it could make it hard to move/pose and possibly break.